The Enchanting Gulmarg: A traveler's tale

Gulmarg

After a light breakfast, we started our journey to Gulmarg. The name ‘Gulmarg’ is a combination of two Persian words: Gul (flowers) and Marg (meadow), hence its name, “The Meadow of Flowers.” Originally, this place was called “Gaurimarg” meaning “path of Goddess Gauri”. Later, in the 16th century, Kashmir ruler Yousuf Shah Chak renamed it to Gulmarg, meaning “path of roses”. Located close to the Line of Control (LoC), Gulmarg is often referred to as a winter destination. But here I was, at this winter wonderland in the summer season! 

Gulmarg: The Meadow of Flowers

A picturesque view

During my journey, I noticed people selling cherries by the roadside. I am not particularly fond of cherries, but the sight of fresh ones tempted me. The cherries were red, plump, sweet, and juicy. They are not like the sour ones we get in Chennai. We bought a box of cherries and munched on them for the rest of the journey.

Fresh and juicy cherries

Upon reaching Gulmarg, we switched to a union cab, as tourists’ vehicles were not allowed in the town. These union cabs, owned by locals, help protect their revenue. The main attraction here is the Gondola ride, one of the highest and longest cable car rides in Asia. However, the tickets needed to be pre-booked online, and they were sold out. Considering the long waiting time for the Gondola ride, I was not that disappointed to have not pre-booked the ride. Instead, I was glad it gave us a chance to explore other gems of Gulmarg.

Gazing at the Himalayas!

Our first stop was Nagin Point. The driver mentioned that the roads were covered with snow just a few days ago, but the rising temperatures had caused it to retreat to higher altitudes. No matter what, I wanted to see and touch the snow. To reach Nagin Point, we needed to take a horse ride from the base, a 15-minute journey. Initially, our parents hesitated to let us go alone, but the driver suggested a family trip, and we agreed. My mom, who had never ridden a horse was terrified. Her horse seemed to be privy to this and trotted faster and faster to tease her! One by one, we rode our horses along the meandering path to the point where the snow hadn’t receded. 

Scenic view from the Nagin Point

As I rode, I took in the breathtaking view of the vast valley, surrounded by snow-capped Himalayan mountains and dense pine forests. The sight kindled an inexplicable feeling within me, reminding me of Robert Frost’s poem, Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening:

“The woods are lovely, dark and deep,   

But I have promises to keep,   

And miles to go before I sleep,   

And miles to go before I sleep.”

When we arrived, we dismounted, and the horses and their handlers returned for their next customers. To reach the untouched snow at a higher point, we needed to take a sledge. Locals eagerly approached us, convincing us to take a ride. I hopped onto a sledge, and two men pulled me uphill. The sight of pristine white snow filled me with excitement, and I hopped off the sledge to play in the snow. My family soon joined me. We took pictures, shot videos, and enjoyed a thrilling sledge ride downhill. It was an experience I wished could last forever.

After an hour of fun, we were tired and decided to move on. While waiting for our parents to return, I observed the locals. The horsemen were part of an association. They made sure they got all the tourists on their horses. I also noticed two men exclusively handling the part of convincing and bargaining with the tourists about the trip. It was a crucial task to secure customers. Their persuasive skills made bargaining nearly impossible! I also noticed a veterinary doctor checking each and every horse and administering a shot now and then. I was sceptical about whether the shot was administered to protect the horses from diseases or to keep them active so that they could take on more load. However, I must say, the doctor was very friendly with the horses and the locals. Maybe this is his main stream of income!

A foal

Our next stop was Bootapathri, meaning ‘A meadow of trees.’ This place is a highly-secured area as it is located just 5km away from the Line of Control (LoC). We had to cross an army checkpost to reach this place. The visiting time to this place is restricted between 10 am to 3:30 pm. When we reached the place, what greeted me was the mighty Jhelum flowing with her full force. This place is surrounded by dense dark pine forests. I wonder whether sunlight would find a chance to pierce through the darkness of the forest. It was quiet although I felt uncomfortable by this overpowering silence. We saw a few army people standing guard near an army post. There were only a few tourists by the time we came. We went closer to the Jhelum and felt her. Jhelum is a glacial river and the water is pristine. When I felt her, the water was freezing cold. We also filled a bottle with Jhelum water to bring it back home. The sound of the river flowing through the rubble soothed the uncomfortable feeling I felt earlier. It was music to my ears. I stood there unmoved for quite some time taking in the surroundings. I really wished I could spend a night here. Then, we took some photographs and departed.

Bootapathri

The mighty Jhelum

Next on the itinerary was Maharaja Hari Singh’s palace, nestled amidst lush green pine trees, and offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Built in the early 20th century, the palace is an architectural marvel.  This palace stands as a testimony to the glorious past of Maharaja Hari Singh. As I explored the palace, I found myself pausing frequently, captivated by the sight of antique furniture, weapons, and artifacts, each evoking a delighted "Oh!" or an awestruck "Aah!" When I reached the underground area, freezing coldness engulfed me. It was warm when we were on the first floor. But here, the temperature plummeted. We were in the month of May and here it appeared as if it were December. I can feel the coldness emanating from the walls and wooden beams.  At first, the area appeared to be a dining room filled with dining tables and chairs. My dad and I contemplated the possible reasons behind the sudden drop in temperature. It was only later I learnt that the underground area was actually a horse stable, and has been repurposed into a restaurant for the visitors. I wondered how the horses once endured the biting cold in the stable!

Maharaja Hari Singh's swords

Once a stable now a dining room!

As we prepared to depart, I glanced at a portrait of the Maharaja in the entryway in his Majestic attire, his stoic expression frozen in time. He who lived here then now lives in a portrait. Reflecting on the impermanence of grandeur, I couldn’t help but recall the famous lines from the poem Ozymandias:

“And on the pedestal, these words appear:

My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings;

Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!

Nothing beside remains. Round the decay

Of that colossal Wreck, boundless and bare

The lone and level sands stretch far away.”

The Courtroom

Standing Before History, Searching Within.

Initially, we planned to visit the Maharani temple, also known as the Shiva temple. It is a 106-year-old wooden temple standing atop a Knoll. It was built by Maharani Mohini Bai Sisodia, wife of Maharaja Hari Singh, in 1915. The main highlight is the temple’s strategic location. It allows visitors to enjoy the breathtaking views of Gulmarg from every corner.  Our driver chipped in with a tidbit that it was at this temple the hit song of Rajesh Khanna “Jai Jai Shiv Shankar” was filmed. Owing to the paucity of time, we decided to skip the temple. We only had a glimpse of the temple from a distance before leaving for Gulmarg. A month later when I read a piece of news about the temple being gutted in a fire, I deeply regretted not visiting it.

After a fascinating day, we returned to Srinagar that night. In my dreams, I found myself on a solo trip to the mountains, riding a horse, and playing in the snow once more.