Srinagar
Hamin ast-o hamin ast-o hamin ast
The above couplet was composed by the seventeenth-century poet saint Amir Khusrau. It is said that Mughal Emperor Jahangir often recited these lines as he was enamoured by the beauty of Kashmir. Since then, Kashmir has been referred to as the ‘Paradise on Earth.’
It had been quite some time since we went for a long vacation. So, we decided to take one this year. The first place that surfaced inside my mind was Kashmir. I have long been yearning to visit this place. As I voiced out my thoughts, my family favoured it and we decided to take a trip to Kashmir. We narrowed down our trip to visit 3 places: Srinagar, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam.
We chose GT Holidays as our travel agent. With everything set, we started off our trip on May 24th, 2024. We had booked our flight from Chennai to Delhi and from there to Srinagar. As we reached the IndiGo counter to get a boarding pass for our early morning flight, an Indigo employee approached me and gave me a card wishing me a happy journey. She bestowed on us the title of their “happy customer” and also took a photograph with us.
I always prefer a window seat while travelling, be it train, bus or flight. During the onward journey, when I heard the pilot announce that we would soon be landing at Srinagar airport, my joy knew no bounds as I looked through the window. What greeted me was a spectacular range of snow-capped mountains that took my breath away. The aerial view is still vivid in my mind. We landed around 4 pm in the evening and checked into our hotel.
Kashmir is the world’s most densely militarized zone. Throughout my stay in Kashmir, I saw all types of defence forces: CRPF, CISF, BSF, ITBP. They were either standing guard or patrolling hither and tither in armoured vehicles and holding their rifles as if in a perpetual dilemma – to shoot or not to shoot! At first, it was quite uncomfortable, but then I got used to their presence. What I found peculiar was that the local populace also seemed to be reconciled to the military presence. I felt a pang of pity for these lovely people who seemed to yearn for a better tomorrow.
The next day, we set out for local sightseeing. Kashmir used to be the summer resort for Mughal emperors. During their reign, various pleasure gardens were constructed around the banks of the Dal Lake which lies on the foot of the Zabarwan mountain range. We visited two Mughal gardens: Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh.
There were numerous varieties of flowers, shrubs, and trees. I saw a cornucopia of rose bushes with roses in myriad colours and in full bloom. For the first time, I saw a few roses that were literally blushing! Bees swarmed the flowers as if it were their birthright to collect honey. The snow-capped mountains and the warm breeze brought peace to one’s mind. No wonder the Mughals spent their summer here!
We took our time and strolled around the garden stopping now and then to take pictures. In Nishat Bagh, we found a spot where they rented Pheran (the traditional Kashmiri dress) for tourists to try on and take pictures. I immediately decided to try the Pheran. Lo and behold, I was transformed into an authentic Kashmiri girl.
Another famous attraction in the gardens is the Chinar trees. They are regal and majestic. The Mughal emperors fancied the Chinar trees and planted them all over the place. Legend has it that Emperor Jahangir coined the word ‘Chinar’ after seeing its crimson leaves during the autumn that resembled fire (chinar). In Shalimar Bagh, the largest of all the Mughal gardens in Kashmir, I found a majestic Chinar tree that was well over 360 years old. I, along with my father, went over and took a closer look at it. It had a wide girth. I tried to encircle my arms around the age-old chinar and gave it a big hug. Its appearance commanded awe and respect. For me, it resembled an aged and wise sage who has seen and experienced a lot. It stood tall and I sat under the tree and meditated for a few minutes before I bade adieu.
While visiting these bewitching gardens, I found the locals picnicking there. I noticed a group of adorable school children sitting around and having their snacks, an aged couple having a quiet lunch, and a joint family having a jolly time under a chinar. The gardens looked warm and lively. It was a sight to behold. I, who come from the southern part of India, have almost forgotten the art of picnicking. I hardly remember when was the last time I went for a picnic.
During the day, we also found time to visit an Emporium and purchased shawls, stoles, and a few souvenirs for our near and dear ones.
The days are longer and the nights are shorter in Kashmir. One could see the sun even at 7:30 pm. After our local sightseeing, we shifted to a boat house in the Dal Lake which is the hub of tourist attraction in Kashmir. It is acclaimed as the ‘Jewel in the crown of Kashmir’. I had great expectations of seeing a pristine and serene lake surrounded by huge mountains. However, what greeted me was a polluted and crowded lake with brightly painted shikara boats cris-crossing one another. It didn’t seem as portrayed in picture-perfect postcards. It has been spoiled by the local Shikara owners, boathouses, and floating shopping stalls for whom the Dal Lake is, of course, the mainstay. The water quality has deteriorated due to poor maintenance and over-exploitation. The sight of debris and weeds floating on the lake was hard on the eyes.
Our travel guide suggested that we take our Shikara ride around 8 pm in the evening to view the sunset. As suggested, we took the famous Shikara ride. It was a mandatory task to be checked off our trip itinerary! The Shikara ride in twilight with a warm cup of Cahwa (a famous saffron-infused Kashmiri drink) is more than enough to soothe a troubled soul and bring in tranquillity. The floating businesses on the Dal Lake offer the tourists a variety of wares to purchase, albeit one should beware of unscrupulous sellers.
After our ride, we had a not-so-good dinner at the super deluxe boat house which was neither super nor deluxe. Unlike the boat houses in Alleppey, Kerala, the boathouses in Kashmir are anchored and lined up along the lake with a few ones sporting fanciful names. On the whole, it was a wonderful day in Srinagar. As I called it a day and retired for the night in the boathouse on the Dal Lake, I caught a glimpse of the Taj Vivanta Dal View perched high above the sea level. Maybe, one day I will have a glimpse of the Dal Lake from the Taj Vivanta Dal view, God willing!
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